Mount Rainier Summited 9-12 July 09

Rating: 4 out of 5 Stars

Distance: ~18 miles Round Trip

Trailhead : 5400 feet (GPS N46 47.124 W121 44.066).

Highpoint: 14,406 feet (GPS N46 51.175 W121 45.627)
Elevation Gain: 9006 ft

Hike Difficulty Calculator: 38 - Extreme

Trail Notes: Mount Rainier Rangers Blog with latest trail conditions.

Pass: $20 for an annual climbing permit and $20 each time you hike/camp above 10,000 ft. (Camp Muir is the demarcation line for the main route to the summit) As always, click on the pictures for larger size.

The set of photos for this hike are located here.

Helping to prepare for this trip, I hiked Mount Adams twice and then up to Camp Muir in a span of 8 days. I felt ready to attempt Mount Rainier. The planning for this trip began several months ago when permit requests were mailed in for a team of six to spend four days and three nights in an attempt to summit. Permits were received and then we slowly gathered our gear over time, scheduling one team meeting to determine community items (tents, stoves, ropes, etc.). We (Ron, Tim, John, Cheryl, Robbin, and myself) checked our list twice and were glad to report that after coming off the mountain, we lacked nothing. Our packs would be heavy, but we had all we needed for just about every condition, including emergency gear. I ended up with more gas than usual but I can always reuse at a later date. Stove gas, that is. M ;-)

We scheduled ourselves to meet at Paradise at 4:00pm to complete the remaining paperwork and obtain our annual climbing card. Everyone climbing Rainier must check in with the Rangers at the Guide House. Park Ranger Kevin took care of us real quickly and provided answers to our many questions about trail conditions, weather, and such. Very helpful young man. While waiting for all of our members to arrive, several of us noticed some Seahawks personnel milling about the Paradise Inn. This was due to the expected return of the NFL Commissioner (Roger Goodell) and Seahawks Coach (Jim Mora) who were part of a big charity climb. Cheerleaders, camera people, and even Tony Ventrella (local TV veteran sportscaster) were on hand for the return of the team. Their story is captured here.

Chery was sharped-eyed enough to spot Tony and gave a squeal of delight upon his entrance to the newly renovated Paradise Inn. With a little bit of coaxing Cheryl went over to speak with Tony. Tony was kind enough to let me take some footage and photos while signing Cheryl's hiking helmet. It was a great opening for our little excursion and gave us plenty to joke about with Cheryl. M:-)

I bet it never gets cleaned M:-)


After the paparazzi finally left us alone and we had our permits in hand, we headed out of the Park to stay the night at the Nisqually Lodge. Here we double-checked our gear, grabbed a good dinner, and caught some sleep in preparation for our first push up the mountain tomorrow. With our packs loaded up, we drove back into the Park around 6:00am to begin our trek up Rainier. Driving the familiar, winding road to past Longmire, on to Paradise, we had mostly overcast clouds with an occasional, teasing opening of blue summer skies. The warm temperatures of June and July were shown in the increase flow of the melt-off coming down from the Nisqually glacier. A few minutes before arriving at Paradise we broke through the cloud layer. We all let out a big sigh of relief. From Paradise and higher the weather was fantastic for us to climb. With blues skies, high spirits and thoroughly prepared, we left Paradise and began our trek up Mount Rainier.

Mike, Cheryl, Robbin John, Ron & Tim


We began by putting our boots on the Skyline Trail, which at this elevation in July still had snow coverage on the portions near Paradise. In no rush with our heavy packs, we kept a constant pace in the still firm snow as the sun continued its morning climb. The trail that most people follow when climbing Rainier takes them to Camp Muir at ~10,000ft. It is approximately four miles from Paradise up to Camp Muir, providing an elevation gain of about 4500ft. Quite a few people come out on the weekends and climb to Camp Muir, which requires no permits and is therefore free. It is a good acclimation climb, combining the significant elevation gained with having to become accustomed to the thinning air which begins around 8000ft. Then it is a relatively easy descent, made more enjoyable by glissading, skiing or snowboarding back down. But coming down was far from our minds as we trudged our way upward, following the well worn snow tracks of other independent climbers and guided expeditions. We enjoyed the nice morning, taking breaks to speak with several of the other climbers out this early.

Unicorn, Castle & Pinnacle Peaks M Paradise under clouds Slow and steady up the glacier

Making our way higher, we took regular breaks and were sure to drink plenty of water. During portions of the hike where heavy exertion was required, I kept the energy levels up by consuming some homemade energy gel with frequent sips of water. I have done this before on Mt Adams and it works for me. Having been to Muir recently, the landscape was slowly being changed as the summer season came to the higher elevations. Several islands of rock were more prominent and we took a good 20 minute break at one of them not far from past Pebble Creek. Back on the trail, our steady progress finally brought us within sight of Camp Muir. For the next 30-45 minutes the reflection of the solar panels off the Ranger's facility, beckoned us onward. We knew we would able rest well at Muir.

Crossing the islands of rock M Taking a much needed breather MMM Light at Muir

Crossing those last steps on the Muir snow field were relatively easy, even in the warm noon-day sun and with our heavy packs. Making it up and removing our packs, we quickly added another layer to prevent the wind from cooling us off too quickly. Some of us snagged some food, others did the siesta thing, and I tried to scramble around the camp to get a few photos. Keep in mind there is no water available to the public at Muir. Bring it with you or melt snow for your hydration needs.

There are roughly four facilities at Muir. Two smaller buildings for the Rangers, one for the clients of the guide companies, another large facility for public use (The Muir Bunkhouse) and three solar toilets.

Guide facility on the left MM Siesta time in the sun


For the majority of climbers and guided groups attempting Mt Rainier, Camp Muir is the staging point for the push to the summit. Most folks start early like we did and upon reaching Muir they setup their tents or accommodations in the bunkhouse (First come first serve, holds 18 I believe). They relax the remainder of the day, prepare their gear for the next big push, get to sleep around 7:00pm for an alpine start at midnight to climb the remaining 4000ft to the summit. And a lot of people can do this. Our plan called for more time on the mountain and was less strenuous, at least for us. We stayed this first night at Muir in the bunkhouse. There were ten climbers in all within the warm and relatively quiet bunkhouse. Our plan was to rest here for the night, then travel another 1000ft up to Ingram Flats in the morning, where we would acclimate some more, practice our rescue techniques, and get another good night of sleep.

Acclimating at Muir MMMM Entire Muir facilities


The owner of the Homer Simpson pajamas in the photo below staggered the last few steps to Muir where he promptly collapsed on the ground. Overexertion with a little dehydration caused him to curl up in the bunkhouse for a short time. Robbin kindly offered him some water to aid his recovery. He was one of three youths that were very free-spirited and not the most mountain savvy. However, they were full of smiles and good humor. I believe they left Muir to return to Paradise just as the sun crossed behind Rainier.

The professional adolescent M :-)


Determined to rest at Muir for the night, we commenced to claim our area of the bunkhouse. Then we gathered snow, melted and purified our water, and ate a filling warm meal. We spoke with several other climbers, some staying at Muir, others coming down the mountain. Some of these folks were with the Camp Patriot group that had volunteered their services to assist injured veterans in climbing Rainier. It fills me up with good feelings when we encounter others among the freedom of the hills who have their hearts and minds in a good location.

Inside of the bunkhouse MMM Soaking up the scenery and sunset


Following a warm nights sleep, we awoke and made a lazy breakfast. Then we gathered our gear, put our crampons to our boots, and roped up. Being cautious, our plan was to stay roped up into two teams once we passed Muir and began traveling on the glaciers. This was our choice and it did not hinder our efforts.

Final equipment checks MMMM Cowlitz Cleaver panorama from Muir

The big area behind Camp Muir contains the Cowlitz Glacier, the Cowlitz Cleaver, Gibraltar Rock, with Cadaver and Cathedral Gaps. We followed the well worn path across the Cowlitz Glacier, passing one team coming down, and chose to ascend over Gilbraltar Rock via the Cathedral Gap.

Crossing the Cowlitz MMMM Muir from Cathedral Gap


Navigating our way up the narrow, rocky path at Cathedral Gap, we had to be careful and balanced. Providing a great grip on the hard-packed ice, we had to watch were we placed our crampons on the rocky slope. Very easy to become off-balance or roll an ankle on a loose rock. But we were in no rush as our destination for this morning's push was Ingraham Flats on the Ingraham. Roughly a gain of 1,000ft over about a mile, with most of the vertical via Cathedral Gap, we took two easy hours to make the short trip. Crossing the Gap and approaching the Flats we could see more of Rainier's elements. Disappointment Cleaver, glacier crevasses, the Emmons glacier, Little Tahoma, a good portion of the east part of Rainier National Park and beyond.

Little Tahoma at 11,138 ft MMM Ingraham Glacier MMMMM Ingraham Flats campsite

Arriving at the Flats, we marked our territory and setup camp. We had all day to relax and watch other climbing groups arrive on the Flats, but we did stick to our schedule of melting ice for water, practicing rescue techniques and the most important of all, acclimating to the altitude by lounging around and breathing pure fresh air while enjoying the unspoiled scenery. Hard work, but it must be done. M :-)

Camp established MMMM Looking at Goat Island Mountain


With our gear ready for a summit push, we turned in to sleep while it was still light. This was done to support an early start. We wanted boots on trail by 1:00am to take advantage of solid snow conditions and potentially be ahead of the majority of the other climbing groups. 1:00am on the wristwatch was illuminated by my headlamp as we began our ascent to the summit of Rainier. Conditions consisted of a high altitude cloud layers, temperature in the mid 20sF, solid snow, and high spirits. Our summit packs being about 75% lighter definitely assisted the spring in our step. Roped up liked children at a crosswalk, each with our own headlamp, we followed the well worn trail up the Ingraham glacier. John led our team well, keeping a good pace but still maintaining safe spacing between the rope teams. We crossed the Ingraham and then started the rocky trail portion that skimmed the south part of Disappointment Cleaver. Part way up the cleaver we could look back and see the other climbers beginning their summit ascent, as evidenced by the multitude of single points of light from their headlamps. After passing the top of the Cleaver, roughly when the sun was rising over the horizon, the trail was populated with people. Creating a nighttime traffic scenario with headlamp after headlamp following the same route up the mountain. The first picture below barely shows the scene of people ascending the route. After sunrise we took another one of our several breaks. Even though our packs were not heavy, we could certainly feel the exertion of climbing at an elevation with reduced oxygen.

Keep in mind that the oxygen content of air is ~21% at sea level but feels much less near the summit of Mt Rainier. The percentage of oxygen remains the same, but the barometric pressure due to the alititude causes a reduction in the partial pressure of oxygen, equating to ~12% for 14,400ft. The wind picked up a little causing some of us to add extra layers and break out a couple of hand warmers. Others climbing groups eventually began to pass us after we passed the Cleaver. These groups were mostly with the guide companies and were on a shorter time schedule. Normally they hike to Muir and that same night, they head out to the summit and return all the way to Paradise by the evening of the second day. So the guides set a demanding pace to make their schedule. We had more time and thus had no need to stress ourselves. There was one group that did turn back due to one of their members developing symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).

Sunrise and headlamps MMM A brief respite MMMMMMM Continuing our march upward

Sometime after 7:00am we finally approached the eastern rim of the summit crater. It felt good to drop our packs and celebrate our ascent. There were plenty of climbers within the crater and we soon joined others in a ten minute walk to the true summit and then on to the summit register.

Cheryl recording the event MMOur proof in the register MMM At the true summit, 14,400ft

It was very fulfilling to have summited Rainier. Though we did cross crevasses and some exposed terrain, the climb itself was not that technical. All of us were adequately experienced and were lead by seasoned veteran, John. Can't say enough about how great he was as our trip leader. Even though we were only halfway finished with our climb, the descent is where most mountaineering accidents occur, it was with renewed energy and an attitude of accomplishment when we turned around to head back down. Breaking out of the clouds somewhere around 12,500ft, we were welcomed by the new day and fantastic views of the eastern portion of Rainier National Park.

Robbin leading the way MMM Small Penitentes MMMMM Crevasse at base of the Cleaver

A successful and safe return to camp was made under a shining sun. Here a couple of us headed back down to Muir and out of the park due to prior commitments while the rest of us stayed another night at Ingraham Flats to partake of the majestic beauty that we were part of. It felt so good to be away from the hustle and bustle while having nothing to do but enjoy the good company in scenic surroundings.

We watched the whole, wonderful sunrise in sublime lazy fashion :-)


After catching up on sleep, I must have been in the tent more than ten hours, I scouted around the Flats taking several pictures and probably getting too close to some of the crevasses. But they were so intriguing. M :-)

At least 30ft deep MMMMMM Right on the edge


During our lazy morning we spoke with several other climbing teams as they came down from their climbs (Not all made the summit). The four folks in the photo below were participants in a fundraising climb. These climbers were part of the University of Washington MBA alumni, where they have joined together to raise money for childrens education in Nepal and at the same time to reach the summits of major mountains in the Cascade range. This team was lead by Abi Devan, far left. Their website, 3 Summits for Nepal is located here.



Eventually we too had to descend the mountain. Roped up for safety we casually but cautiously made our down Cathedral Gap, across the Cowlitz, and back to Muir, where we took another break, thanking park ranger Kevin for all the good information he shared with us. Outstanding young man.

Approaching Muir from the Cowlitz


Arriving back at Paradise we were all smiles with satisfied relief. With the rope, my pack still weighed sixty pounds, but it didn't matter as the climb was successfully behind us. We changed clothes and headed out of the park.

That pizza never tasted so good. MLOL

Route Profile MMMMMMMM Route Topo


Video:
Part 1


Part 2