Mt Rainier crevasse rescue training, OC Course 5-23-09

Course: Training for crevasse rescue of a fallen climber

Distance: 4.5 miles round trip

Trailhead: 5398 feet (GPS N46 47.028 W121 44.528)

Highpoint: ~7500 feet
Elevation Gain: 2100 feet

Pass: National Park Pass or Seasonal Pass. Driving directions at bottom of post.

As always, click on the pictures for original size.

The set of photos for this hike are located here.


This past week in class at Vertical World we were introduced to rescue systems and the actions needed to rescue a fallen climber from a crevasse. Using ropes, carabiners, and a pulley or two, we were taught how to establish a mechanical advantage to aid in lifting a load. Keep in mind that these trip reports just cover what occurred during our outings and are in no way instructional or technically accurate. Always defer to peer reviewed literature and veteran professionals for lessons in mountaineering.

We arrived at Paradise around 0730 to an absolutely beautiful day on Mt Rainier. Only the diehard climbers had begun to arrive at the mostly empty parking lot. Soon enough the rangers kindly asked us to relocate our vehicles to a another section, to create more room for the tourist and visitors that were not into climbing but more about visiting and experiencing the mountain for their first time. Packs slung on our backs we headed out onto the white wonderful world of Rainier.

Rainier from Paradise MMMM Morning leg stretch MMMM Looking back at The Castle


We merged with the other climbers onto the main route that people follow up to Camp Muir and higher. The day was absolutely gorgeous in the 50/60sF with nary a breeze. Purely phenomenal views.

Heading toward lesson location M Climbers heading to Muir


Arriving at our lesson destination we enjoyed a brief respite and soaked up the magnificent scenery around us. Then we began setting deadman anchors for our 'fallen climber' to be attached. We dug down about 12-18 inches using only a single picket as an anchor because the snow conditions didn't call for two anchors. Once the anchors were set for our two teams, our fallen classmates attached themselves to the rope via their climbing harness. To belay them down or up if they were able to climb, we used the Munter hitch.

Single picket deadman anchor M Digging the anchors MMM Munter hitch to anchor



The classroom scenery we had to endure :-)


During the morning all the students cycled through all the positions of each of the rescue methods. We progressed from an ambulatory climber that could self-scramble out of the crevasse to a climber that was immobile and needed to be raised with full assistance. We put our classroom lessons into practice with 3:1 and 5:1 pulley systems.

Teamwork is important MMMM Beautiful day MMMMMM Carabiner and pulley


Of course our lessons were broken up with snowballs, nearby climbers, and the occasional slough off of snow or small avalanche from the mountain. Occasionally we would hear what sounded like thunder or the report of gun being fired. This would signal a crack in the snow that often lead to a section falling down or small avalanche. We witnessed several of these as the day progressed and the sun warmed the snow.

After the class lessons were finished several of us stayed to climb higher and enjoy more of the perfect day. With the holiday weekend there were plenty of people making their way up the Camp Muir and beyond. The photos below capture some of the scale as climber make their way up and down the main route.

North from Panorama Point MM Trails to Camp Muir MMM Mt Rainier & some features



Route Topo MMMMMMMMM Route Profile


Video:


Directions
Drive Washington highway 706 east towards Mount Rainier National Park and go through the town of Ashford. About 3 miles east of Ashford you will arrive at the Nisqually entrance station. Remaining on the same road, 706, continue about 17 miles to the Paradise Visitors Center. Voila, you have arrived at Paradise.