Mount Saint Helens

Rating: 5 out of 5 Stars

Distance: 11 miles Round Trip

Trailhead : 2675 feet (GPS N46 07.826 W122 10.238).

Highpoint: 8363 feet (GPS N46 11.485 W122 11.736)
Elevation Gain: 5688 feet

Hike Difficulty Calculator: 32 - Extreme

Trail Notes: Dogs ARE permitted on trail !!!!

Pass: Sno-Park permits for parking, but no cost permit for MSH climb at this time of the year. Driving directions at bottom of post.

As always, click on the pictures for larger size.

The set of photos for this hike are located here

This was a great outing, plain and simple. The weather window for the hike was awesome, no cost permit season, no crowds during work week, and just the bestest of friends to enjoy the outdoors with.

Mount Saint Helens (MSH) was made infamous from the 1980 eruption. I will leave the history to those that can tell it better. Wiki Article, National Geographic video 1, 2, & 3.

The girls, Cheryl & Robbin, did a great job at planning this trip. Weather was very nice with no precipitation from about Tuesday thru Saturday. So our approach to camp on Thursday and ascent on Friday was in very good snow conditions. Avalanche danger was low, snow base was packed down along the trail, and the beautiful blue skies opened up for some fantastic panoramic views. As mentioned, we were ahead of the pay-for-permit season which runs from April through October and costs $22 per person. But it was necessary to purchase 2 one-day sno-park permits for parking (11$ per day per vehicle). Climbing during the work week meant there were very few people on the mountain with us. The full moon paired with clear skies allowed us a 2-3 hour early morning alpine start via lunar light. A rare opportunity for a great climb.

After packing all the hiking gear, gadgets, and extra warm clothing, we climbed into Jim's truck and happily headed south. Roughly a three hour drive, it went by fast with all our conversation and unbridled excitement. I was having such a good time I almost forgot to call work and tell them that I couldn't make it in due to a sudden bout of sunshine stomach virus.MM :-)

Finally we arrived at the Lone Fir Resort, the only authorized place to obtain MSH hike permits. Here we were treated to local hospitality and a warm, hearty lunch. During our meal and review of the new permits, I realized that dogs are permitted on MSH. I asked about this new detail with the owner of the Lone Fir and he confirmed via the govt that the permit printing was correct and that 2009 was the first year in a long time that dogs were allowed to accompany their owners up MSH.

Lone Fir Resort MMMMMMMM Permits MMMMMMMMMM First close look at MSH.


Finishing our lunch and snapping a picture of bigfoot we then continued along Highway 503 past Lake Merwin and Yale Lake, following the road to Marble Mountain Sno-Park. Upon arrival it was the normal pre-hike routine of unload the contents of the vehicle, pack said contents on your back, and begin carrying the contents up the mountain. As mundane as it sounds we all had big smiles and a spring in our snowshoes as we headed out past the snow-mobilers and cross-country skiers taking in the winter beauty of the outdoors.

Gearing up MMMMMMMMMM Heading out MMMMMMMMM Simply beautiful


The first mile or so along the trail makes the traveler meander through a non-dense forest. No undergrowth was observed, only white laden trees dripping with semi-hazardous snow piles. A very pleasant snowshoe traverse with gradual elevation gain. As we broke away from the forest and entered the barren white terrain that surrounds the volcano in the winter, we were amazed by the views. Wide open spaces slathered with a bountiful sculpting of white coating to contrast against the deep cerulean skies.

So enticing MMMMMMMMMMM Making our way MMMMMMM Beautiful


As we headed onward and upward the beauty of the surrounding views increased. We could see Mount Hood to the south and Mount Adams to the east. The wind was never an issue with only the occasional whispered caress to remind you of being outside. Looking ahead we kept an eye open for a decent campsite. Since our route was along Monitor Ridge we hoped to bivouac near the trail. Using good eyes on the first photo below we were determined to setup camp at the last of the trees. Difficult to see in the first photo, but just a little higher along the ridge are three specks. When zoomed in those specks become descending hikers in the second photo.

Camped at clump of tress MMMM Three hikers MMMMMMMMM Mount Hood


Finding a little place to call home, we broke out the shovels and engineered ourselves a foundation of smooth snow with a semi-attached outdoor kitchen. Then it was just a matter of firing up the JetBoils and settling down to some hot food. Chipotle chicken with garlic mashed potatoes for me and other savory selections comprised the main course. Then we had the terrible task of enjoying a dozen different flavors of Hershey chocolate kisses as daylight bid us adieu. Four good friends enjoying the outdoors among a very peaceful, serene, and fulfilling evening . It doesn't get much better. M :-)

Roughing it M LOL MMMMMM Sunset over Portland MMMM Venus in view


Three miles from the trailhead gave us about 1500 feet of elevation gain. Nothing difficult but a enough to make sure we went to sleep quickly especially with the bellies full of warm food. For those curious readers out there, my winter sleeping accommodations are as follow: Zero degree down sleeping bag (careful with ratings), two sets of poly base layers, one light the other medium weight, two pairs of thick socks with a hand-warmer between them on the soles, and topped off with a cap for my head. The sleeping bag is on top of two foam Thermarests. And if you're really experienced outdoor enthusiast you can create jealousy with down booties for that late night urination excursion. LOL

Snug as a bug in a rug, I drifted off to sleep in no time with visions of sugarplums and dancing snow fairies. I dreamily recall being blissfully lead by the beckoning hand of the prettiest snow fairy ever to grace a glacier. She teased me with her bountiful bergschrunds as she raced across aretes, tempting me ever further into her winter wonderland. Running fast and hard over moraine and across cirques, I could never quite reach her. Heart pounding, blood coursing, and sweating with effort I made one final lunge to catch this coquetish creature of creamy couloirs. With a herculean lunge, I grabbed her slender wrist and drew her to me. Hearing the sound of my name over and over brought a smile to my face. Then it became louder. Mike, Mike!, MIKE!! are you awake?

I hesitantly opened my eyes, anxious at what I might see. Sigh.... I had a death grip on my water bottle as Jim asked me again if I was awake. My watch told me was 3:00am. I was so close. Sigh....

Call me a curmudgeon but I was the last one to leave the tent for breakfast. Go figure. But the smell of brown sugar and cinnamon oatmeal flavored with dried cranberies and ginger cookies was enough to get me on my feet though. Finally fueled up and dressed, we pointed our boots uphill and began our ascent of MSH by moonlight.

The pictures below make it appear more dark that it actually was. With clear skies and plenty of moonlight we rarely used our headlamps. The trail was easy to follow with the only decision being to follow the hard packed trail or break new snow. Depending on the snow conditions each of us made our own decision for what worked best. Some of us used snowshoes, others let their mountaineering boots do the work.

Volcanic pumice rocks MMMM Stay to the trail MMMMM GPS station under moonlight


Seeing the sun rise up to join us from behind Mount Adams during the ascent was very inspiring. It made me forget the struggle of our mile high climb. I don't know if it was the icy scales of the snow covered volcano, the majestic mountains spread over many miles, the silent, cold but pure air, or the companionship of good friends that made this outing special. Everything blended together so well it seemed magical.

Mt Adams sunrise (Robbin)M Slow & steady progress MMMM Ice scales of the winter dragon


Step after step we continued upward. Nothing technical about this climb. We used no ropes and crampons were not needed. No one brought oxygen bottles but they did make me stay downwind.M;-)M We did it with snowshoes and trekking poles. Later in the morning we saw skiers slowly making their way towards the top with skins on their skis. They would have a good lengthy glide down.

Westward MMMMMMMMMM Cheryl approaching summit MM Red Robbin :-)


Patience finally paid off. Cheryl had lead us safely to rim of the crater via the summer route.

The views were spectacular!! Mt Hood and Mt Jefferson from Oregon to the south. Mt Adams and the Goat Rocks to the east, Mt Rainier and Mt Baker to the north, the Olympics to the northwest and an ocean blue horizon to the west. But there was the Mount Saint Helens volcanic crater right below us. Conditions again favored us and we were able to stand very close to the edge of the rim and take in all the grandeur. Close on our heels were a trio of young hikers who had begun their trek straight to the top at 2:00am. Time for some eye candy.

Jim on crater rim MMMMMMM The hardy trio MMMMMMMM Looking south


Dome within crater MMMM Mt Rainier & Spirit Lake MMM Gorgeous


After a brief rest several of us hiked over to the true summit without packs. 30 minutes each way. The photos below capture the short but exciting excursion.

Let's hit the summit !! MMMMM Must, keep, going...MMMMMM Great experience




Closeup of crater vent MMMMM Wonderful !!!



Route Profile MMMMMMMMM Route Topo



Lessons Learned
1. There are different styles of snowshoes and they can have an effect on your snow experience. I was surprised at how long snowshoes have been around (~4000 years) and that the modern western snowshoe was developed by Washingtonians in the Cascades (link). There are several models out there and each has its own pros and cons. The ones pictured here are similar to the style I wore this trip. What made a difference for me was the 'ascenders' or the small bar in the previous picture that can be flipped up to provide assistance to the heel and calf muscles when climbing a steeper grade. Another useful feature was the roughly 360 degree of grip offered by the aluminum frame.
2. For longer hikes or outings that can take up the majority of the day, the moon can play a factor. As mentioned earlier we had almost a full moon with no cloud cover. This permitted us to have a very early or 'alpine' start. Depending on the condition of both nature and the hiker, the MSH excursion to the summit ranges between 7 and 12 hours. We were able to ascend MSH for a few hours before the sun rose, allowing us to complete our trip and return home at a reasonable hour, including driving and food stops.
3. Don't forget the basic advice of wearing sunscreen when exposed to sun and white, reflective snow. You'll be redder than Robbin's jacket before you know it.
4. Glissading proved to be a challenge this time. Even though we had plenty of clear vertical elevation to use, I ended up getting only 2-3 short runs in. The condition of the snow when matched to my cheap 'glissading' (read old lightweight rain pants) was not conducive to good butt-sliding down the mountain. It felt like I was a graduate of the Charlie Brown school of glissading. LOL Very frustrating. I think the trick might be to get a hold of some old rubber style fishing waders and spray them with a silicon sealant. Than ought to allow you to haul ass. :-)
5. Note to self, take some self-pictures to show you were there.
6. And to end on a positive note. A hot bath with Epsom salt does clear away the weariness of the trail much better than I thought. The aches and pains I expected the following day after our excursion were absent. Very comforting and soothing. Of course the rum & coke helped but the Epsom salt did truly 'heal' the body. Highly recommend one after a lengthy outing.


Video:


Driving Directions
From Interstate 5, take State Highway 503 Exit 21. Go east roughly 23 miles till you reach the town of Cougar. Remember to pick up permits for the hike and parking. Then continue about17 more miles to the Marble Mountain trailhead.