Mount Constance and Lake Constance
Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
Distance: ~ 25 miles roundtrip
Parking: 475 feet (GPS N 47.44.346 W 123.04.361)
Trailhead: 1475 feet (GPS N 47.43.779 W 123.08.495)
Highpoint: 7756 feet (GPS N 47.46.369 W 123.07.642)
Elevation Gain: 7281 feet
Hike Difficulty Calculator: 37 - Extreme!
Trail Notes: Due to washout of Dosewallips Road, must hike in 4 miles to Lake Constance trailhead.
Pass/Parking: Northwest parking pass required. National Park camping permit required for overnights at Lake Constance and beyond.
As always, click on the pictures for easier viewing.
All photos of this weekend's hikes are located here
Plain and simple, this was the most difficult hike encountered to date. The Lake Constance and Mount Constance outing had been planned for several weeks. A couple of our hiking group members braved the National Park red tape and acquired backcountry permits that allowed us to stay at the campsites near the shore of the eleven acre lake. Adventurers for this demanding and wicked weekend included Wade, Paul, Vivien, Cheryl, Robbin, Dave, Ron, and myself. Weather forecast for the three days had Friday as good and sunny, Saturday as partly cloudy with a chance for rain, and Sunday as mostly sunny. Turned out to be a surprisingly accurate forecast.
Arriving at the trailhead, our vehicles disgorged their eager occupants and gear. Parking on the side of the road next to the Dosewallips River, we prepared for the weekend while swatting some of the pesky bugs that we had disturbed with our morning muster maneuvers.
The gang getting ready MMMMThe Dosewallips MMMM I can't recall if this pack was Ron's



Weekend packs on our backs we begin our outing. Right away we had to deal with the forces of nature. A storm in 2002 eroded away enough dirt and road that hikers must hike about 4 miles past the washout to reach the Lake Constance trailhead. Current efforts have three options that the National Forest Service must chose from as a remedy to the washout. It appears that maybe by 2012, vehicle traffic could be restored. Thimbleberries, conversation, and the busy, babbling background sounds of the Dosewallips carried us along the road to the trailhead.
Click & look for Vivien for size Mm Tasty thimbleberries MM Robbin at the starting gate



For those unfamiliar with the Lake Constance trail, it is the steepest trail in the Olympics. As the sign above reads, 3400ft of elevation gain in 2 miles. Quite a portion of the trail parallels Constance Creek which occasionally plays hide and seek when it runs underground. The trail is steep, frequented by rocks, carpeted by roots, and, uh, uh, steep. One time we were resting in the shade, trying to catch our breath, when of all things, a slug passes us. Going up hill!! And we had yet to reach the really steep part. mLOL
Steep and difficult mmmmmm At least we were in the shade of the trees.



Up, up, up we went. There actually is a flat part to the trail. It lasts about 50 yards. mLOLm Then it gets even steeper. The trail cuts through some drainage areas that are real close to the creek as it cascades instead of crawls downward. Be cautious of Devil's Club and Stinging Nettle. At this portion of the trail, it's best to put away the trekking poles and use both hands. You will literally be pulling yourself up by anything that is within reach, whether it be root, stump, or branch. Just be of gentle nature and try not to pull too hard on the vibram in front of you. That unthinking action may preceed dirt and rocks raining down on you along with complimentary curses. b;-) MSome of the handhold's have been grabbed so often that they have been worn extremely smooth with use. If the trail seems to be faint or lost, look for the steepest part and go that direction. v:-)
About 15 ft and 80 degree incline MM 1000's of hands


We ran across another hiker leaving the lake as we were approaching Constance. Josh had come up the trail earlier in the morning, with a light pack and a SLR camera to capture some of the beauty at the end of this brutal trail. It was his turn to smile as he saw our heavy packs, wished us a safe trip, and then went downhill. m :-)
Full of determination and Ibuprofen, we finally arrived. The eleven acre Lake Constance owes its stunning blue/green color to the result of glacier movement over the millennium. The grinding away on the surrounding high mountain rocks created stone flakes (called glacial flour) that over the years filtered down to the lake, creating the sky-matching reflected color. One arrives near the Southeast side and follows a snake-like winding footpath around the East shore and over a large field of talus before reaching the campsites along the Northern shore.
Looking WestMMMMMMMM Looking South from campsite


Looking North MMM How many hikers are on the talus field? mClick to count.


After our trek of torture up the trail, we split into three different campsites and enjoyed a lazy afternoon of setting up tents, eating warm food, and discussing tomorrow's goal of summiting Mount Constance. A little time was taken to explore and enjoy the remaining hours of a beautiful day. The solar-composting privy was located at the edge of the talus field but offered little privacy. Fortunately there were only three hikers, seven goats, four marmots, six deer, and a partridge in a pear tree to observe me make use of the exposed facility. mLOL
Calm and serence MMMMMCerulean captivation MMMM Start of tomorrows adventure



Night came, stars were engulfed by blackness, the earth rotated, and another day broke upon us as we headed north over the talus into Avalanche Canyon. Knowing that the day was to be long, we set out a little after 5:00am. Headlamps were used for a short while until the dawning day bestowed upon us enough light to cautiously navigate the rocks and boulders that filled the canyon.
Ghostly Dave at point MMMMMMM Rocks everywhere


Nothing technical yet to challenge us as we made our way over the boulders and patches of snow of the canyon. We were expecting the weather to be peculiar and the sun did obligingly play hide and seek with the fast moving, swirling clouds as we continued northward. Over the terrain of the canyon it was personal preference whether to use trekking poles or an ice ax. Some of us carried an ice ax and others carried both. Though we all agreed that good boots were a must, especially a full shank to provide good torsional stiffness over the uneven surface of the talus.
South to the lake MMmMM the Cat's ears \/ MMMMM Looking north



There are several ways to climb Mount Constance. We were not navigating the rock climbing routes and none of us carried ropes. As one goes up through the canyon there are a couple of chutes on the eastern side that provide access to the rocky ridge. The South chute is mostly composed of scree and makes for a difficult ascent. We were aiming for the North chute which consists more of talus and bedrock. Two challenging aspects of the North chute come to mind. Spread out over the bedrock and looking for that next nub to grab with your fingers while you are trying to secure a purchase with your boots below, can really cause the adrenaline to flow. And those rocks that were kicked loose and rolling down at you can be painful. Helmets were worn for a reason. m;-)
Starting the North Chute MMM Life is tenacious MMMMMM Always upward



Continuously cautious MMMM Spark of sun and sky MMMM Almost perpendicular



Our persistence and perspiration payed off with all of us making the ridge. Our elevation here while facing the eastern sun was around 7200ft. The northward path, or rather direction, we followed combined lots of rock scrambling with plenty holding on to prevent the gusting wind from unbalancing us. Narrow ledges and sharp, brittle rock forced us to be constantly alert and cautious during every precarious step and unsteady handhold.
Working northward along the ridge



It took us over two hours to make our way north towards Constance. In that time we traveled only about 1200ft in a straight line. Up, then down, crossing snow, and climbing rock. We had to do it all. It was not easy, but we each got into our own zone and continued to make progress, no matter the obstacle in front of us.
Struggle for survival MMMMM Hard packed snow MMMM Take the quick view



When nature loosens her harsh grip in the alpine country, small bits of beauty and color are able to slip out and strut their stuff. There were few occasions to observe the treats that lined our route, but they were there. Whether it was the provocative panoramic vistas offered by the Olympic Mountains or the small, delicate flower persevering in it's alpine environment, these tectonic treasures are easier to find with an open soul.
Traversing northward, the climate continued to keep us on our toes. The occasional break and ever present wind necessitated adding a quick layer to prevent getting chilled. What little sun we had witnessed while ascending the North chute and felt on our cheeks along the ridge traverse, appeared to be conceding to the fomenting clouds surrounding us from the south. But this did not dampen our spirits as our unrelenting efforts brought us within view of our destination.
Looking at the peak and what remained between us and our goal, we knew the easy part was behind us. Weighing our options, Paul bravely scouted the route by crossing the well-known and dangerous Finger traverse. It was tricky to begin the traverse, the way one must position themselves to obtain a grip. Even though the traverse has a good drop and we were not using ropes, the crack that provided us a place to hold on to was extremely solid. Safety meant keeping a good grip as we inched along the approximately 45ft traverse.
Last look at blue sky MnnMM The peak of our goal \/ MM Wade & Robbin at Finger traverse



Breathing easier after accomplishing the Finger traverse, we faced a classic dilemma, take the high route or low route . We could see the peak of Constance, knew what direction to head, but were unsure of which path. After testing the high route and realizing ropes and harnesses would be required, we chose the low one. That meant we would lose some elevation and would have to regain it. No matter, it was the easier and more prudent route. The most important part of climbing a peak such as Constance is not summiting, but returning safely. Happily, all of us made it back with no issues.
Getting closer MMMMMMM Almost there MMMMMMMMM Home stretch



As can be seen in the third photo above, we dropped our packs for the final 60ft push. Vivien and Wade went up and circled around to gain the peak. The peak at Constance does not have enough room for many people to be on it at once. We took our turns going up and coming down safely. Congratulations to all that summited the third highest, and most technical peak in the Olympics!!
This way MMMMMMM Wade on top!!!


High fives and hugs went all around. What an achievement. This was one outing for the books.
Our descent off Constance was accompanied with some surprising snow flurries. Yes, we had been rained on earlier and expected rain again, but to have snow in early August left us smiling and flabbergasted. It only lasted about five minutes and did no harm. All in all, a rather amazing atmospheric event. m:-)
Our descent took a slightly different path, as can be seen in the topo route below. Paul continued his superlative scouting activities and found a way that avoided returning along the Finger traverse. This saved us about an hour and a half which was much appreciated by all. Though it did put us on the path to cross the Terrible traverse. LOLm For us the traverse was not as terrible as anticipated. If covered with snow then it would have been more dangerous, especially with the sheer drop below and vary narrow boot path. Keeping with our good luck and experience, we carefully crossed the narrow ledge and put ourselves back on the ridge.
View of Terrible traverse

Continuing with the different route theme, we sought the South chute to descend back into Avalanche canyon. The South chute is comprised of mostly scree and it much easier to descend than go up. Near the Cat Ears, we entered the South chute. This time the chute was funneling the gusts of wind and rain upward, causing cold and slippery conditions. Gloves were put to good use here as well as other portions of the day's hike among the rocky crags of Constance.
Wade & Robbin South chute

A safe return to base camp by all brought warm food, good spirits, and plenty of grinning faces. After the long thirteen hour climb and descent, we were glad to be back. Even without the victory toast, we were ensured a good nights sleep. As an aside, it must be said that hikers staying at Lake Constance should protect their gear while sleeping, as the local little critters around the lake take evil pleasure in relocating gear and even chewing on backpack straps and other tasty tidbits. Ye be warned there be pack pirates. mLOL
Wade's cozy camp MMMMMDave lost a belt to the nighttime ninja critters :-)


After a well earned long sleep, coffee was made and poured to greet the morning and happy hikers from Constance. We idled about, casually breaking camp and cursing the varmints that gnawed on our gear. In front of us was the seven mile return to the vehicles. Not to difficult for those that summited Constance, but we needed to descend the steep Lake Constance trail. Yes it was tough, especially on the knees, but we had plenty of time and made it down without incident.
A little break at the trailhead bridge, an easy walk down the road, and a short stop at Rocky Brook Falls to take in the local scenic setting. A great and successful outing.
A round of applause to Wade and his accomplishment of summiting Mount Constance at age 72!!
Rare close shot of Paul :-) MMM Falls at trailhead MMMM Rocky Brook Falls



Full route topo MMMMMMM Lake to Peak route
Car to Lake MMMMMMMMM Lake to Peak and back MMMM Lake to car
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Driving Directions:
Going south on Hwy 101, past Brinnon, take the Dosewallips River Road exit and head westward about 14 miles to the end of the road.
13 comments:
Mike, that was a sensational report and great pictures too. I envy your trip, but had a good trip on Rainier's Wonderland trail while you were doing that. You blog here adds valuable information as well as describing a remarkable adventure. I'm so glad you had a good safe trip and made the summit successfully. Thanks for you fine account of it.
Been waitin all week for this report, OK I confess, I snuck a peak at you flickr account last night. :)
Great report. That talus field shot is amazing. Also, I didn't know those were called thimbleberries, we always called em red caps. At any rate I'm extremely jealous you guys got to go and I had to stay home. I leave for the Sierra Nevada tomorrow so hopefully I'll have some good stuff to report when I get back. Goat Rocks on Labor Day weekend and hopefully Loowit loop in mid-Sept.
Thank you Jim and Jay. It was quite an outing, but as you two know and show, there is much to enjoy throughout the Northwest.
R/ Mike
Wow - congratulations, Wade! I'm inspired.
THAT climb looks like so much fun! Yes, there are parts that would scare me into peeing my pants, but overall, every turn seems to serve up amazing natural beauty.
The talus fields remind me of the rock and boulder strewn washes in the Anza-Borrego, and sections of the incline work remind me of a desert bit called "The Dragon's Spine", only at a grander, scarier scale.
Probably fewer rattlesnakes to be mindful of in the Olympics, tho, eh?
Congratulations, Mike, to you and your mates, particularly Wade! WADE TO GO!!! (groan)
Mike, I can see Mt. Constance from my home on Whidbey Island. Many times I have studied the route in books and maps. Many times I wondered what the "Traverse" would really be like. Now that I have seen your outstanding video I will pass with satisfaction. (S. Brothers, Buckhorn, Townsend, & Mt. Baldy were tough enough for me.) Thanks for sharing. WW
Thank you Ingrid. Yes, that is one nice thing about the Olympics, very little stuff is poisonous around here.
Though I really did appreciate the less dense foliage and undergrowth of the high sierras when we were in Yosemite. Beautiful and refreshing change. :-)
WW,
It was a challenge, I just wish we had better weather like we've experienced on Brothers, Marmot, etc. But we are in the NW. ;-)
R/ Mike
how long did the whoel trip take you? im writing a report on Lake Constance and would like to put your trip in my information if you dont mind, and because i am going next summer and would like to know more. im fascinated you did all that! Good job and the berries look good! please wb asap! thank you :)
Hello Cassie,
Appreciate your comments. The trip I reported on was 3 days/2 nights. Consisted of hiking in to Lake Constance and setting up camp the first day. After a good nights rest, we got up early to climb and summit Mt Constance the second day. After a much needed rest, we hiked out and back to the vehicles the third day.
This schedule allowed for rest as necessary when dealing with the steep trail to the lake and an adequate pace while hiking the canyon and climbing the mountain.
Keep in mind what time of the year you will be hiking, as some berries are in season at different times.
Good luck and be safe. It is a challenging hike and climb. :-)
R/ Mike
Hello there. Thanks for this great trip report. Do you happen to have a .gdb (garmin database file) of your route? I am planning to climb Constance this weekend, and feel that might help out a bit.
Thanks,
Brandon
bkotulka@hotmail.com
Your blog keeps getting better and better! Your older articles are not as good as newer ones you have a lot more creativity and originality now keep it up!
Appreciate the comment !!
:-)
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