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MARMOT PASS & MOUNT BUCKHORN
Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
Distance: ~12 miles
Trailhead: 2461 feet (GPS N 47.49.675 W 123.02.465)
Highpoint: 6983 feet (GPS N 47.49.533 W 123.07.303)
Elevation Gain: 4522 feet
Hike Difficulty Calculator: 27 - Very difficult
Trail Notes: Access road free of snow, trail conditions have very little snow remaining, gaiters not necessary, trekking poles recommended.
Pass/Parking: Northwest parking pass required
As always, click on the pictures for easier viewing.
All photos of this weekend's hikes are located here
The elemental deities finally caved in to the pleas of us Northwest hikers and provided us a whole weekend of wonderful weather. Some of the members of our local group planned a Sunday excursion to Mount Townsend with a possible attempt at bagging Welch Peak also. With the weather this good (cloudless and in the upper 80s) I convinced Kiwi to go up Marmot Pass and Mount Buckhorn with me on Saturday. She falls for the cookie trick every time. m;-)
Driving along Forest Road 27 is like a hiker's candy store. So many trails to choose from. Options include the two Quilcene's, Notch Pass, Mount Townsend, Tunnel Creek, and even Tubal Cain Mine if using two cars for a one way hike. Make sure you drive cautiously on the narrow, but thankfully paved, road. Poor visibility if overcast, occasional hunters, potholes, and sharp turns keep you alert.
Trailhead MMMMMMMMMMMEarly view
A relatively early start saw us at signing in at the trailhead ahead of other adventurous people that were sure to be out enjoying the day. It had been about 8 months since we were on this trail and I was expecting blowdowns to be an issue. Sure enough there were at least 6-8 blowdowns along the trail. No major damage to the trail, just trees blown down from this past winter. I took some photos of the conditions to share with the WTA, as we knew they appreciated current reports of trail conditions.
Blowdowns
After the first mile, the path switches away from the Quilcene river and climbs steeply to another switchback, then cuts through the forest back to the river. The last brush with the Quilcene occurs around the two and a half mile mark at a wide open place called Shelter Rock, commonly referred to as Camp Jolly. This locale is an ideal destination for those groups with young hikers. Plenty of room to run around, exploring the pure, snowmelt, river and nearby forest, while mom and dad grill up some lunch. (GPS N 47.49.754 W 123.05.240 elev-3823ft)
Kiwi convinced me to take a break here at Camp Jolly. I had worked up some sweat and it felt good to remove the backpack. But within a quick minute the shaded grove and nearby snow caused me to realize the temperature was pretty cool. I checked the thermometer and saw about 53F degrees. We grabbed a quick swallow of pure mountain water, slung the pack back on, and headed up the trail. Kiwi gave me that look of disdain that only someone prepared for the elements gives to another who is not prepared. LOL I tried to explain that even with a beard I'd still be cold. i:-) m Within 15 minutes of leaving the river and gaining some elevation, I was back to sweating and the thermometer was up to 65F.
Up, up and up we go. Hiking through part of the more than 44,000 acres that make up the Buckhorn Wilderness. Leaving Camp Jolly, the trail steepens as it separates itself from the Quilcene. Around 9:00am we came across some peak-a-boo views to the south. Frankly, I don't know the name(s) of the peaks that were welcoming the warming sun, but they were still nice to behold. A little more effort and the sunlight at the end of the forest was in our view. We finally emerged from the forest proper around 5200ft and were trekking along under full sunshine power. This uncovered portion of the trail contains several scree fields and somewhat steep mountain meadows that were in the birth of their blossoming season. Beautiful sunny, blue skies, very slight breeze, and wonderfully scented alpine blooms. It was magnificent.
End of the forest mmmmmmmAlpine blossoms mmmmmmmmGlacier Lilies
We continued along the trail, careful of our footing on the scree sections with their loose rock and playing hide and seek with the sun as we passed under several small sections of alpine forest. Before to long we had arrived at Camp Mystery, approximately 4.5 miles from the trailhead(GPS N 47.49.041 W 123.07.420 elev 5410ft). This is the last section of the trail with a ready supply of freshwater before reaching the pass, so be sure to fill up.
Water bottled filled, we continue on, paralleling some of the snowmelt as it cascades down from the pass. Long sunny days and plenty of fresh water have been enticing the glacier lilies to show their lutescent beauty. As we continue, almost reaching the bowl before the pass, we see more grander views of Mount Buckhorn, 1500ft above us.
Some light snow patches were scattered on the south-east side of the bowl. Even though there were several burrows visible, only one of the local marmots came out to loudly greet us on our arrival. Twenty minutes after Camp Mystery, we claimed Marmot Pass as ours. m:-)
Enjoying the view offered at Marmot Pass and higher up
The views are just breathtakingly, awesome. Looking north, one can peer across the Dungeness Valley and soak in the many peaks that fill the horizon (Mount Mystery, Mount Fricaba, Mount Deception and The Needles). Looking southward with a good squint, one could make out Boulder Ridge and Mount Rainier, looming in the distance.
After a brief respite and some food, we had taken off for the faint trail that breaks away from the Tubal Cain Mine trail and leads up to Buckhorn Ridge. The climber's trail up to Buckhorn Ridge is steep, ascending a slope with average 40% grade until you reach the upper portion of the ridge where the grade is much more forgiving. There's lots of loose gravel and rock on this steep trail and those with aging knees find trekking poles a definite plus on the descent. Even if you have no interest in going all the way to the top, anyone going to Marmot Pass really ought to head up the climber's trail for 200 or 300 feet of vertical gain: the views are far better than the already great views at Marmot Pass itself because as you ascend, to the north you'll see Constance, Warrior, Inner Constance, and intervening ridges such as Alphabet Ridge. Now this section of the hike needs your attention. It is steep. About an 800 ft gain in elevation in a half mile. I was using my toes at times to stay on the trail, the angle was that severe in places. Again, be careful, because if you slip you will end up sliding for some time.
Rainier and Adams mmmmmLooking back from Buckhorn mmWhere's Kiwi? M:-)
Up, up, up we went. Not much time to grab many great photos, between hustling to go up and then working to catch my breath. Kiwi kept giving me that look as only a low-to- the-ground, four-legged, sure-footed hiking partner could. But hey, I was the one carrying all the extra food, water, clothes, emergency kits for both of us, and video gear. All six ounces of pocket camera. LOL vFinally the ascent leveled out on the ridge and if the effort to get up there didn't take my breath away, the panoramic views certainly did.
Keeping up the determined pace, we squeezed in a quick breather and then continued to the the south peak of Buckhorn Ridge, enjoying the awesome 360 degree views. Time was a little after 12:30pm (GPS N 47.49.533 W 123.07.303, elev 6983ft) Temperature was roughly in the mid 80s. With the sun shining down on us, it was warm enough to go topless but Kiwi kept me modest.m:-)mTo the northwest, Gray Wolf Mountain (7218ft) still had some snow, with just a touch of snow visible on the final ridge approach from the east. A look at Mt. Baldy showed more lingering snow and Tyler Peak had its fair share of the white stuff.
Nature's beauty can be found if one searches the soul
I try to explain what we encounter on our adventures and describe the settings we see, but the views today just had to be experienced for oneself. It was the clearest and longest views I had ever enjoyed. San Juan Islands, Victoria Canada, Seattle Space Needle, we could even make out Mount Adams past Mount Rainier and I bet if we looked hard enough we could have seen that Eskimo waving at us from Polar Bear Peak, Alaska.m:-)
Ain't life grand? c:-)
As the photos and video attests, Mount Buckhorn is craggy, with rocks and boulders of all sizes. Please be careful and keep safety your first priority. I was considering scrambling up the highest rock on the south peak. It would have been challenging to climb it, but then I would have to descend it, alone, with no one to help if I needed. Much less any assistance if something went wrong. So I put the ego on the shelf and saved it for another time. I'd rather write about the near attempt than have someone read about the fatal attempt. M;-) m Instead, Kiwi and I chose to make our way down the north-eastern side of Buckhorn and then navigate the scree slope to return to the trail below. Kiwi had some legitimate concerns during certain sections of the rocky traverse down to the scree. I had to portage Kiwi by her harness a few times. Good job to the designers of her Ruffwear harness.
Go down on the right
About 15 minutes of scrambling towards the north peak of Buckhorn, we hit the line that starts one of two avalanche chutes between Buckhorn and Iron Mountains. Looking down the avalanche shoot was pretty choice. Here we are at the top, underneath a sapphire sky. Then about 1000ft below, waits the trail. We descended a slope of about 60% grade. Trekking poles out, Kiwi safely off leash and down we went. Take a step and slide roughly a foot or two, then step with the other leg, keeping the poles in front as much as possible. The scree was very fine, with a consistency of sugar. The sun was making its presence known during the midday. We could see heat waves shimmering of the gray colored scree field. Must have been in the low 90sF as we continued on. Kiwi stayed right next to me as we descended, eventually steering to the right when we started reaching a clump of trees to ensure a safe landing back on the original trail. Whew, what a blast! The scree route shortened our return hike about a mile and a half. The knees appreciated that. m:-) mAfter a quick breather and emptying of rocks from the boots, we pointed ourselves back down the trail and took off and what do you know? The blowdowns that we had recorded were no longer there! Had the sun made me forgetful? I was really scratching my head as I would round a corner expecting a blowdown that I knew was there. But it wasn't. Hmmm. As I finally approached the trailhead I knew what had happened. The WTA had a working party performing trail maintenance. What an amazing difference they made in the 6-7 hours we were on the hike. Big thanks to their awesome efforts.
No decent GPS routes nor profiles this time. Batteries. :-(
Video:
Driving Directions for Marmot Pass and Mount Buckhorn
From the town of Quilcene, go south on US 101 1.5 miles, and turn right (west) onto Penny Creek Road. At 1.5 miles bear left on Big Quilcene River Road, which becomes FR 27. At about 10 miles, go left on FR 2750, and continue 4.75 miles to the trailhead at 2500 feet elevation. (GPS N 47.49.675 W 123.02.465)
MOUNT TOWNSEND & WELCH PEAK *
Rating: 5 out of 5 Stars
Distance: 9.5 miles Round Trip (some of us did some extra hiking)
Trailhead: 4000 feet (GPS N47 53.211 W123 02.514)
Highpoint: 6285 feet (GPS N47 52.048 W123 03.569)
Elevation Gain: 2285 feet
Hike Difficulty Calculator Score: 21 - Difficult
Trail Notes: Road to trailhead free of snow. Very little snow on trail, none at top. No snowshoes nor gaiters needed. Can wear summer shoes.
Pass/Parking: Pass is NOT required at the Little Quilcene trailhead.
As always, click on the pictures for easier viewing.
Photos of this hike are located here.
Since Sunday was going to be another really nice Northwest day and our trail mates were heading to the hills, well it was only the right thing to do by getting out and joining them m:-)
Our companions today consisted of Jeff R., Willie, John W., Ron "Assless Chaps" J., Cheryl, Jeff M., Jim R., myself and Kiwi (she fell for the cookie again LOL) It was good to have Ron back in the saddle after much recent work at his job.
Jim leading the way MMMmMMount Buckhorn m\/mMMMFalse summit of Townsend
In an attempt to shorten this report we made it up to Mount Townsend using the Little Quilcene Trail that was free of any blowdowns from last weeks efforts of the hiking group. The summit was as inviting as ever. We had blue skies, fantastic views, an occasional slight breeze, and plenty of warm, almost hot sunshine. I did put some sunblock on, but actually received a sunburn on the crown of my head of all places. Never in my life had that happened. LOL
Enjoying the views MMMMMMJeff enroute to Welch mmmMThe Peak \/
With our nice casual pace on the way up and restful break we enjoyed, Jeff asked if anyone was game for attempting Welch Peak. I was feeling the weekend's exertion, but it was so nice and we had plenty of time, so Kiwi and I fell in behind Jeff as we went along the west side of the Townsend ridge. Welch Peak is right at one mile from Mount Townsend and rises up 6000 feet. The trail is faint and a challenging scramble just about the whole way. Especially as you climb up the last few hundred feet to the top. Again it was midday as Kiwi and I felt the strong sunshine. She made it a habit to find every patch of snow near the trail and lay down for a few to cool off and grab a mouthful. As for myself, I was using up a lot of cold Gatorade in my efforts to keep up with Jeff. Man does he have a mountain motor in him. The energizer bunny would be jealous of his capacity.
Phlox and Wild Strawberry MMSwitchbacks on the 839 Townsend trail
Though you must pay attention to the trail and be careful of the many spots where you can fall, it is still one of my favorite traverses. Buckhorn and Townsend/Welch are two of the most rewarding dayhikes, next to the High Divide Loop, that I have experienced. Especially with friends on a weekend as awesome as this one was.
Again, to keep it short, Jeff made it over to Welch Peak but I stopped about 3/4 of the way. Not enough fuel for my puttering motor. LOL Jeff met John, Willie, and Jeff at the peak as they had summited via a different route. I'll have to go on that route next time. Then we all headed back over to Townsend to join the groups of other dayhikers enjoying the Olympics.
Quite the crowd of hikers MMMJay of the NW Hikers
Well we couldn't get back to the cars without some more hiking, so we pointed our boots down the Little Quilcene trail. We made good time as we all desired to return to the shade of the forest trees. I was in such a hurry or maybe I was running my mouth too much but I overshot the Crow's Nest Hotel that I was hoping to show Ron and Jeff. m:-( mWell, next time with more fuel, fresh batteries or whatever is needed, we'll find it. LOL
The first cold one goes to Jeff MM *I came up a little short on Welch
Video:
No video made this time. Next time up Welch I'll put one together.
Driving Directions for Little Quilcene:
(Note - My directions differ somewhat from the directions provided by the Forest Service. The link to their site is here, search for trail # 835. Also, my GPS map software differs from the Forest Service and the directions I provide below. SO, in summary, read the FS directions and mine along with the pics I inserted below, and you should reach the trailhead)
From U.S. Highway 101, two miles north of Quilcene, take Lords Lake Road/Little Quilcene Road to Forest Service Road 28. Take the right fork onto FS 28 (Gold Creek Road) . Follow this to the end where a sign alerts you to Forest Service Road 27 and another sign provides direction and distance to Mount Townsend and the Big Quilcene Trailheads. You need to turn RIGHT, in the opposite direction of the sign. Travel along FS 27, climbing continuously for just over 4.5 miles. As you drive along the road you will take the fork that points to the Little Quilcene trail and not the Mount Zion trail, while passing a small road sign of "2820", just like the FS directions. Eventually you will turn a sharp, wide corner and notice the the road begins to decline. Stop right at the corner as that is the location of the trailhead, (GPS N47 53.211 W123 02.514). If there are any issues with the directions provided, please let me know.
Turn RIGHT at this sign mmmGPS software driving route mTurn left onto FS 2820
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